Wednesday, December 9, 2009


Contrary to what my family may believe, I do miss my home-home, Hawaii. Beyond the lilikoi iced tea, Island Manapua and W&M Drive-In, I miss my family. Then there are those only-in-Hawaii moments: a fan of shoes outside the front door; the ice-cold slush of your sort-of frozen, sort-of melted can of juice; and the surf phone tree.

I experienced a little bit of the surf phone tree yesterday when my dad called to tell me that the Eddie Aikau was on and there was a live-feed online. It was a sweet way to end the day, watching pro surfers drop-in on some ginormous waves. I loved hearing names like Sunny Garcia, Bruce Irons and Shane Dorian called out. It took me back to high school, and I am always amazed to see that that those guys are all still competitively surfing.

The moment when Greg Nolan went on his 100-point ride sticks out most in my mind. The way the camera shot him dropping in reminded me of the footage of Greg Noll taking on Waimea Bay in Riding Giants. Chicken skin.

I was so proud yesterday to see my home-home, and I was glad to see all those people on the beach playing hookie. The Eddie has been around for 25 years, but because the wave-face has to consistently hit 40 feet, this was only the eighth running of the contest. How often do you get to experience a day like the Eddie?

I can't help but think the Eddie Aikau is so much cooler than Mavericks. Considering that I live in Nor Cal, it's surf blasphemy, I know. But I can't help it. Waimea Bay is beautiful, the temps were near 80 yesterday, and sunshine beats fog any day in my world.


  1. Nice! I agree, the Eddie is a better event. Not just because it is beautiful, and easy for the crowd to watch, and much warmer! It also honors the true spirit of surfing, the tradition, and the strong tie to Eddie, a legend. Here, they honor the men who made it possible, and the treat them with a reverance that only soul surfers can understand. At Mavericks, "Mavericks Surf Ventures Inc." tossed the founder Jeff Clark out of it and are trying to discredit his true legend and contribution to big wave surfing, instead focusing on money and hype. It seems that Northern Cal has a jealous, vindictive current running through it and will never truly embrace the aloha of surfing. Jeff Clark understands that aloha, and couldn't take the crap he saw happening with the corporate takeover of his event. Anyone who thinks the Mavericks contest is "core" or real should take witness of the Eddie. Even with Quicksilver as a corporate sponsor, they understand the spirit and aloha and family that is so important. Go Clyde!! you are amazing.

  2. Agree'd - home - home is better any day of the year!! (kinda)